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Jorinde Jacket

So I decided I wanted a little jacket, I have made a jacket once before, but wanted to try a different pattern and have  a jacket that was well finished and lined. So I choose the Jorinde Jacket from Burdha:

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/jorinde

I printed the pattern and cut it out and then cut the fabric, but any further than this point and it was going to be a challenge.

The instructions are terrible and made very little sense at all, they talked about pattern pieces that were not even on the pattern and the instructions were confused and I couldn’t make head nor tail of them.

So much for following the pattern exactly to get this jacket just right!!

So I decided (now that I had already cut the fabric) that I would just have to use some guess work (along with some internet research) to figure this one out. 

I looked at other people’s versions to help and stared at the pattern pieces a lot. The best advice I can give is to keep hold of all the paper paper pieces and match up your fabric like a jigsaw, use the numbers on the pattern pieces to figure out where each piece goes, there are some random bits that took quite a bit of figuring to work out where to sew them. Hopefully this post will be useful though, as I needed some help really at the time.

A really useful post for the lining, and that helped me figure a few other things out was this one by Grainline Studios:

http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/

Takes the puzzle out of how to sew it all inside out and not get it all tangled.

This is a great jacket and very happy with the end results (with just a few alterations was exactly what I wanted).

So for the tutorial:

To start off, print the pattern out and cut up the pieces.

Then cut out all of the pieces from the main fabric.

Sew all of the darts, then this is the point when you should sew pockets, I didn’t use the flap pockets, but did welt ones, I used a great You Tube tutorial here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MOuOLkLqQM

Then lay out all your pieces as below, this shows you how you will join each piece.

Then start to sew the pieces together, Number 2 are the back pieces, 1 are the sides, 3 is the yoke (goes at the top of the shoulders and is seen on both back and front, the longest edge sews to the back piece).

Next sew the sleeve back and fronts together. Then sew these to the jacket. I did this step then undid it and adjusted the sleeves because they were slightly too big. This tutorial was correct about the sleeve  adjustment to make:

http://nikkishell.typepad.com/nikkishell/2010/03/making-a-jacket.html

Below was the fabric taken off of the sleeve to make it fit right.

Sleeve alteration

Sew number 6 (the collar) to itself and leave the short edge unsewn, this then will be sewn onto the jacket.

Save pattern pieces 7 and 8, as these will be sewn onto the lining.

Now cut out your lining, you need front, back, sleeves, yoke (which is no.3), sew these together in the same way as the jacket (you’ll end up looking like you have two jackets.

Then sew number 7 to the lining, as well as number 8 as in this image from grainline studios of jacket and lining.

Next these need to be sewn together, use this great tutorial for this bit, I found it so helpful:

http://grainlinestudio.com/2012/01/09/sewing-tutorial-how-to-bag-a-jacket-lining/

And I hope that helped. Let me know if you need any help or are confused, but here is my finished jacket:

I didn’t add the buttons to the sleeve because I wanted a flowery lining that I could roll up and make it three quarter length if I wanted to. I also used my lining fabric for all of the pocket, so that the detail showed.

So proud of my lining, makes the jacket look really finished, no horrible seams that anyone can see. Love the fabric too